It was bound to happen. After a year’s worth of fawning attention that included being named Best New Restaurant by Bon Appétit and an epic story in the New Yorker, Sean Brock’s Husk got knocked down a peg by the old-school GQ food critic, Alan Richman.
Not only did Husk not make Richman’s Ten Best New Restaurants List (No. 1 is INK in LA by Chef Michael Voltaggio), but he wrote an entire addendum to his piece, entitled “Where the heck is Husk?” in which he dismisses the restaurant as lacking in serious respects:
“I’d expected more. Sophistication, I hoped. Care, at least. I found neither. Husk is proof that a restaurant isn’t about what comes in the back door; it’s about what goes out the kitchen door.”
Haters gonna hate, right? And Richman has a serious contingent of his own haters. On an episode of Treme last year, written by Anthony Bourdain, a chef marches out of the kitchen and throws a Sazerac cocktail in Richman’s face as payback for the bile he wrote about New Orleans’ food scene in the wake of Katrina.
Maybe this will make Brock feel better about the national dressing down he received at the hands of Richman.