The Charleston love train just keeps chugging along in the national media.
This week, the latest copy of Bon Appétit arrived with a two-page spread featuring a suave picture of Chef Mike Lata of FIG along with the requisite shout-outs to FIG, McCrady’s, and Hominy Grill. BA also gave some attention to Peninsula Grill, the Glass Onion, Caviar and Bananas, Bin 152, and Sugar.
Money quote from the Glass Onion blurb: “The best reason to venture beyond the peninsula is this culinary outpost two miles past the Ashley River. This laid-back joint stocked with southern folk art is the only place you’ll find whole Carolina quail butterflied and fried to perfection.”
In his weekly food column for TIME.com, Josh Ozersky coins the food word of the year — lardcore — to describe the Southern food movement being led by our own Chef Sean Brock.
First money quote: “A slew of young chefs are taking modern Southern cooking to a new place, forming a movement in the crucible of high ideals, virtuoso technique, and hard-core attitude. Call it lardcore. It’s meticulous, it’s ballsy, and it doesn’t care what you think of it. In that, it’s very Southern.”
Second money quote: “A chef like Sean Brock is an explosion, an evangelist for the lost glories of the South; his mere existence instantly invalidates what used to pass for fine dining in the South — usually frozen steaks piled high with crabmeat or some such thing. That won’t pass muster anymore. Lardcore is like locavorism on steroids.”
National Geographic has a small online feature that gives a shout out to Slightly North of Broad for its Carolina quail, local shrimp, and stoneground grits.
Money quote: “Think of Charleston as the jock in the Southern belle set.”
EVO Pizza up in Park Circle is stoked to be in the Pizza issue of Jane and Michael Stern’s Popular Plates magazine series. The magazine dedicates itself to a different food each time, compiling pretty much everything you need to know about favorites like barbecue and comfort food. In the Pizza issue, EVO gets singled out as one of the 100 pizza places you can’t miss.
Money quote: “While the Palmetto State never has been known as a source of great pizza, Lowcountry cooks are famously talented; and EVO … is proof that those creative juices combined with the best local products and a wood-fired oven can equal transcendent pizza.”
The Old Fire House in Hollywood S.C. also gets some love as the No. 15 pizza place to visit. The Roadfoodies stopped by and made their own concoction, which you might still find on the menu, with garlic oil, pimento cheese, onion, sausage, and shrimp.
Please note, we haven’t seen the entire issue yet, so we’re not sure if anyone else got a notice in there. Let us know if there’s more.
This month’s GQ has a spread on Chucktown. We haven’t been able to get our hands on a copy yet since the Pig still had October on the racks, but we know that FIG and Hominy both get mentioned.
Finally, if you’re going to read one piece about food in Charleston, we recommend hopping over to the Garden & Gun site and reading John T. Edge’s story on Bertha’s Kitchen. You can be sure the whole dang piece is full of money quotes.
Here’s one: “You can get a great pork chop, too. Gnarled in shape and vaguely ferrous in color, these bone-in monsters are ferried straight from the fry bank. They arrive so hot that, at a recent lunch, my rib bone burned a hole through the foam plate.”