Andrea Bennett has a piece in today’s NY Post about eating authentic in South Carolina. Forget the McCrady’s version of shrimp and grits (“shrimp paste formed into blocks, wrapped in a grits cake and flash-fried, then topped with dot of a butterscotch tasso reduction”), or Tristan’s she-crab soup (“topped with parsnip foam”). While she admits that the food of our big downtown chefs is “truly spectacular,” you’ve got to know the real deal before you can appreciate the twists and turns.

“It’s really the kind of eating to which you should graduate after you’ve tried the classics — cooked in the same cast-iron pan, the same way, since before the War of Northern Aggression. No foams, freeze-drying, or suspicious foreign bacon allowed.”

She takes readers to Shem Creek for shrimp and grits at Shem Creek Bar & Grill and then to Water’s Edge for fish stew and Vickery’s for their Lowcountry Sauté.

She also stumbles across the new Buddy Roe’s Shrimp Shack, which has “little on the menu but baskets of fried shrimp, but what shrimp!” Her final destination is Gullah Cuisine in Mt. Pleasant for “a lesson in doing Lowcountry food the right way.”