In today’s issue of the New York Times Magazine, culture editor Sam Sifton explores the history of that very Charleston dish — Country Captain:

“…a staple of Southeastern Junior League cookbooks since at least the 1950s and is found in various forms in older cookbooks as far back as the 18th century. Made correctly, it captures exactly that moment of excitement you can feel when first arrivi[image-1]ng in the region from far away: a sense that everything really is different in the South, that it is the one last, true regional culture in the United States.”

He interviews Robert Stehling at Hominy Grill about his version, and puts together a recipe from various sources, including those “fancy-pants Charleston cosmopolitans Matthew Lee and Ted Lee” and local culinary star Nathalie Dupree.

Somehow, I was able to convince my husband to make it for dinner, which he’s doing right now. Smells good. Can’t wait to dig in.[image-2]

UPDATE: The finished dish (pictured) was quite wonderful. He sprinkled it with toasted almond slivers, currants, and crispy bacon before serving. Yum.


Stay cool. Support City Paper.

City Paper has been bringing the best news, food, arts, music and event coverage to the Holy City since 1997. Support our continued efforts to highlight the best of Charleston with a one-time donation or become a member of the City Paper Club.