At my house we make breakfast for dinner at least once a week. It’s not an “oh shoot I forgot to go to the grocery” crisis, either. It’s a celebration. We’re talking eggs, bacon, sausage, fresh fruit, a baguette broiled with some melted cheese because what the hell, it’s the best meal of the day.
So, when asked if we wanted to check out the new Millers All Day all-day breakfast joint at 120 King St., I didn’t hesitate. “Cocktails and breakfast food, what could go wrong?” my fiancé queried joyously. Answer: Not a thing.
The space itself, still shimmering with the patina of brand spankin’ new paint, is gorgeous. From the plaid banquettes to the sputnik chandeliers to the pink sink and toilet in the bathroom to the photo booth, you’re not just here for the eats. You’re here for the gentle transportation to a simpler time and place.
We started with cocktails — the Chai Greyhound and Hot Coffee. The vodka libation was light and bright, reminiscent of a traditional tart Greyhound with a tropical flair. Made with Cannon Chai Vodka, grapefruit, ginger, and cinnamon, the glass was garnished with a pretty (and edible) candied slice of ginger. The Hot Coffee was divine — the grown-up version of a Baileys spiked Dunkin latte clutched during a college tailgate. Made with bourbon, vanilla Demerara, coffee, and maple cream, it was boozy with a bite.
My fiancé, a Ron Swanson disciple who is serious as sin about a well-cooked egg, ordered one over medium, as a “test” he said. Served alongside his bacon, grits, and fried chicken biscuit, the egg passed with flying colors, as did the rest of his spread.
I ordered the warm BLT shrimp salad, which was perfectly nice and filling, with fat pink shrimp sitting atop a sweet and savory sherry dressed bed of escarole and sunflower seeds. But man oh man did I want that chicken biscuit. It fell apart after a couple of bites, which created the perfect base for my dining companion’s fried egg. “I think this is my new favorite restaurant,” he muttered, mouth full, halfway through the crumbly delight.
We cleaned our plates and amicably argued over which pie slice we’d choose. The retro vibes screamed “lemon ice box!” but our server said the walnut honey was pretty darn good. With a buttery crust and a heavenly gooey sweet walnut center, it’s officially knocked pecan pie off of my radar. Order it with the Hot Coffee for a truly elevated 50s diner existential experience.
The all-day breakfast concept from Greg Johnsman, Nathan Thurston, and Chef Madison Tessener is as pretty as it is smart. Seriously, who doesn’t love breakfast food? This may not be the spot for the palate thrill seekers or those attempting to stick to a mean green diet. But if you like your eggs over medium and your coffee spiked with whiskey, this might by your new favorite restaurant, too.
Millers All Day is open daily from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.
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