The phrase is simple, “Evolve or die.” Something so trite and cliché is still one of the most profound sayings of our time. Yet as humans, we loathe change.
Charleston has done an impeccable job over the years of keeping outsiders from changing our restaurant scene. Acclaimed chefs have come, only to have failed or never even get started. Now Beemok Hospitality, backed by local billionaire Ben Navarro, has partnered with a California-based restaurateur, the MINA Group, to bring us a stunning new passion project, a restaurant called Sorelle. Does this holy trinity of deep pockets, celebrity chef and blind ambition hurt or help our tight-knit restaurant community?
Please understand: This commentary isn’t an anti-Sorelle piece. In fact, having moved here from Los Angeles eight years ago, this new eatery defines the opulence I initially expected from an amazing food city. Be that as it may, three years ago I started the Facebook group Lowcountry Eat Out! to support independent, locally owned restaurants during 2020. Since then, I have gotten to know, admire and respect many independent restaurant teams — which is why when I saw the insanely deep, California-like, investor money involved with Sorelle, my very (professional) first thought was, “Oh sh*t! This isn’t good.”
When I lived in Los Angeles and San Francisco, the average restaurant was more like a hedge fund of investors. One or two big players often followed up with close to 100 others from celebrities to tech executives who “dabbled” in restaurant investments. That money drove the intricately designed spaces, instigated over-the-top public relations, paid for the astronomical rents and got talent hired for a steep price. Comparatively, Charleston restaurant investors often are of a smaller caliber and, many times, are an “investor,” singular.
Beemok’s goal is “enriching lives through extraordinary experiences.” It curated this passion project with a money-doesn’t-matter vibe. It was mentioned on its industry night from management that this restaurant can “easily be written off as a loss for years to come. Money is not a concern as this space was created for the owner.” This troubling combination makes me wonder what small local restaurant or investor group has that ability? Seriously, who can compete?
Sadly, none of our local talent was tapped to be at the helm. But Sorelle did bring in some incredible front- and back-of-house experience. At the same time, hourly employees are those from our area’s already understaffed restaurants. With a billionaire’s endless pockets comes beyond competitive pay which means, once again, Charleston is cannibalizing our near anorexic staffing situation.
One step inside Sorelle’s three townhome conversion, you will see elegance on a level far surpassing what locals are used to seeing in restaurants here. The concept is fully built out in the guests’ eyes and yet still feels somewhat local. All of this eye-candy can quickly make this girl forget the bigger issues.
As I talk to local restaurants downtown that are feeling the staffing pinch as the busy season looms, one common conversation comes up. Sorelle is offering positions to restaurant employees. Now I am all for capitalism. If you have a great work environment your staff will stay loyal. But Sorelle is offering $1-$2 per hour more plus overtime in excess of 15 to 20 hours a week for back-of-house employees like cooks and dishwashers. Kind of goes with what management was saying, endless pockets. Leveraging finances to get what is necessary is not uncommon in business, but how do our smaller backed restaurants afford that?
Beemok has the potential to create affordable food and beverage industry housing while marketing to attract hourly employees from bigger cities or culinary schools to create a new wave of restaurant employees for it and for our city. Furthermore, its success will open the door for more celebrity chefs with deep-pocket investors to come. Creating similar scenarios.
For now, how do our current small independent restaurants compete? These are businesses that are a part of the fabric of our community. They donate to our charities, kids’ programs, sponsor teams and more.
Evolution is inevitable. Our Charleston restaurant scene is not immune to that — nor should it be. From celebrity chefs to deep-pocket investors, we are always an attractive place to be. So let’s work together to lift up our Charleston food scene.
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