Thanksgiving — that most American of holidays — causes visions of bountiful turkey and gravy, wild rice, sweet potatoes, dressing (or stuffing, depending on your tradition), cranberries, pecan pie, pumpkin pie, pie pie and everything in between.
“The idea of setting aside one day each year for rest, reflection and the expression of thanks has its roots in European religious traditions that came to the New World centuries ago with our earliest explorers,” Charleston County Public Library historian Nic Butler writes in his award-winning history blog. “What was once a religious tradition gradually evolved into a secular tradition, and later became enshrined in law as a national holiday.”
This year in honor of November’s annual day of thanks, we offer a Turkey Day trifecta to fill you with a little history, some good food and some things to do.
Act One: Thanksgiving evolved in America
The first Thanksgiving in the Carolinas likely occurred more than 100 years before the English landed in Albemarle Point in 1670 in West Ashley to settle Charles Towne.
Back in 1562, the French established Charlesfort on what is now Parris Island, but it was abandoned the following year. Three years later, the Spanish settled the island, and it became the northernmost settlement of the province of La Florida.
At its height, Santa Elena, the capital of the province, had up to 450 residents. During this time of Spanish occupation — or earlier by the French — it’s highly likely that settlers celebrated the area’s first day of prayer and thanksgiving, which included a feast, after anything from a military victory, quiet hurricane season or great harvest, Butler wrote. In 1587, however, the Spanish abandoned Santa Elena so settlers could help to strengthen St. Augustine to the south.
Fast forward to the spring of 1670, when the English landed at Albemarle Point in West Ashley to create Charles Towne. There aren’t any records that detail their first day of thanksgiving, Butler wrote. But it’s highly likely that it was about this time of year 353 years ago.
“They probably didn’t celebrate and relax right away because they needed to build shelters and plant crops, but perhaps six months later, say in November 1670, after surviving the initial adventures associated with launching a new colony, I suspect they finally treated themselves to a day of rest and thanksgiving.”
On the menu
And what did they eat in those early, irregularly called Thanksgivings? Whatever could be foraged. They had access to all sorts of wild game, including deer, turkeys, herons and ducks. And while seafood was readily accessible, fish, crabs, oysters and shrimp likely weren’t big on the menu, said Martha Zierdan, The Charleston Museum’s curator of historical archaeology, in a 2022 interview.
“Other types of wildlife that settlers ate included alligators and different kinds of turtles, such as diamondback terrapins and loggerheads,” the story said. “Zierdan gave an example of one usual offering: a roasted turtle served in the shell and topped with a pie crust.”
As early as 1686, Huguenot Jean Boyd wrote in a letter how settlers ate “bear and tigers (wildcat), as well as stags and wild turkeys. He also listed ‘quantities of ducks, teal, wild geese, wood cocks, two or three types of snipe, sea larks and cormorant … very good rabbits and hares and squirrels.’”
Timeline
Until the Civil War, Thanksgiving generally was a “moveable feast,” celebrated when called by leaders of the state. Here are some other historical dates associated with thanksgivings in the Lowcountry:
Oct. 17, 1706 – “Earliest recorded observance of a day of public thanksgiving in the English colony … which was approximately six weeks after our militia forces defeated an invasion force of Spanish and French soldiers,” Butler wrote.
1745 – A public thanksgiving of a British victory over the French at Cape Breton.
March 13, 1760 – Gov. William-Henry Lyttelton proclaimed a thanksgiving “for disappointing the boundless ambition of France” and the defeat of the French army in Canada.
1776 – A day of thanks for the patriots’ major victory over the British on Sullivan’s Island. It’s now celebrated every June 28 here as Carolina Day.
Nov. 13, 1806 – City Council resolved to have a general thanksgiving “as a mark of respect, duty and gratitude toward the Omnipotent Disposer of Events for the highly favorable situation and conspicuous point of view in which he has been pleased to place this city,” according to the City Gazette.
1815 – A general thanksgiving following a peace treaty ending the War of 1812 with the British.
November 1863 – While American presidents starting with George Washington in 1789 annually proclaimed nationally public thanksgivings, President Abraham Lincoln set the annual celebration as the last Thursday in November.
November 1941 – President Franklin Roosevelt signed a law establishing Thanksgiving as a national public holiday on the fourth Thursday of the month.
So as you’re giving thanks this year, remember the four centuries of Thanksgiving history in the Lowcountry. And don’t forget to eat your vegetables, too. —Andy Brack
Act Two: Skip the turkey this Thanksgiving
The minute a recipe requires you to remove a dead animal’s innards is usually the minute you start thinking, “Is this really worth it?” A time-honored tradition, the Thanksgiving turkey is, for most cooks, not all that fun to cook. And for many, the turkey often plays second fiddle to the real showstoppers: sides of creamy mashed potatoes, crunchy green bean casserole and whatever iteration of dressing or stuffing your family subscribes to.
Now comes the City Paper’s unofficial, supremely abridged guide to skipping the turkey this year. While the time may have run out for you to order food from a local restaurant or catering company, it’s not too late to say no to the bird and whip up these tasty side dishes instead. After all, sides are the best part of the meal.
Mexican cornbread
From CP Cuisine Editor Connelly Hardaway
If being a pescetarian for five years taught me anything, it’s that salmon on Thanksgiving just doesn’t hit the same as a Virginia country ham. That’s where carb-heavy sides come in — and my mom’s cornbread hits just the spot. Simple, decadent and as spicy as you want to make it, it’s perfect for the vegetarian and veg-curious eaters in your life.
From Laurie Hardaway’s mom recipes, est. 1991. Serves 4-6.
1 cup self-rising yellow corn meal
½ cup vegetable oil
½ cup cream style corn
2 eggs
8 ounces sour cream
1 cup grated cheddar
1 chopped onion
4 ounces green chiles
Optional: sliced jalapenos on top
Preheat the oven to 425 F. Spray a 9×9 baking dish with cooking spray. Mix all ingredients in a large bowl and pour into the dish. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes or until a fork inserted comes out clean.
Yummy yam souffle
By Nathalie Dupree
From the archives: City Paper chatted with award-winning cookbook author Nathalie Dupree in 2021 and got the deets on an easy, light dish of yam souffle. And if you insist on cooking up a bird, she has a “fast unstuffed turkey” recipe available online.
From Nathalie Dupree’s Southern Memories, 1993. Serves 4-6.
2 28-ounce cans yams
3 large eggs, lightly beaten to mix
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon salt
Topping
1 cup chopped pecans
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons butter, melted
¼ cup flaked coconut
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Drain the yams, reserving about 1½ cups liquid. In a large bowl, mash the yams with 1 cup reserved liquid, adding more if needed for a smooth consistency. Add the eggs, sugar, vanilla and salt; mix well, and pour into a greased casserole dish.
In a small bowl, mix the pecans, sugar, vanilla, flour, butter and coconut. Crumble over the top of the casserole and bake for 30 to 35 minutes. Serve hot. Note: This dish can be made in advance and frozen.
Lowcountry seafood dressing
By local chef Amethyst Ganaway
One of my favorite dishes for Thanksgiving is seafood dressing. There’s a difference in dressing and stuffing — dressing is made with the drippings (and often the giblets, gizzards and other bits) of your holiday bird and cooked in its own dish. Stuffing, however, is made inside of the bird itself.
My family has always stayed away from stuffing, as many people undercook their birds, which can lead to people getting seriously ill. My great grandmother also told us that cooking anything inside of the bird will only cause the bird (and the stuffing) to spoil more quickly. With the abundance of seafood that surrounds the Lowcountry, I enjoy seafood dressing over the regular stuff, and I’ll take homemade dressing over anything out of a box!
How to make it
I make my dressing from scratch with homemade cornbread (but boxed is fine and depending on how many people you’re serving you may want to make 1 to 2 pans), and I let it sit out a day or two to get stale.
Then, I crumble it in pieces and set it aside while I gently saute crab meat, chopped shrimp and oysters with the holy trinity of onion, celery and green bell peppers — all local. I save the oyster liquor specifically as well to add to the dressing.
Once everything is cooked and cooled, I add it to the crumbled cornbread, add the oyster liquor and any reserved drippings from the bird (or cooking stock), and mix it gently by hand. Some folks like to add a little chopped boiled egg, but I usually save that for dressing made with just poultry. Then I season to taste, usually with kosher salt, black pepper, poultry seasoning and a mix of a few fresh herbs such as thyme and a little rosemary. Next, taste the mixture before adding to an oiled or buttered baking dish.
The key to fluffy, not dense and not dry dressing, is threefold: Don’t over-mix. Don’t add too much liquid. And don’t bake too long. I bake my dressing at 350 F until it’s golden brown on top and set in the middle where a toothpick put inside will come out clean. Be sure to let the dressing sit awhile to cool before serving!
Act Three: Where to dine in or pick up
Whether you want to dine in or pick up your Thanksgiving meal, we’ve got you covered this holiday season. City Paper has compiled a list of Charleston restaurants, kitchens and catering companies serving delicious food for families to make giving thanks a little easier.
Pro tip: Make your dining reservations or pick-up orders now!
Thanksgiving dine-in specials
BLU on Folly is hosting a one-of-a-kind Thanksgiving supper experience with a three-course meal from noon to 6 p.m. Nov 23. Reservations are available, and the experience costs $62 for adults, $30 for children ages 3 through 12 and free for children 2 and younger.
Church and Union offers a three-course prix-fixe Thanksgiving Day meal at $70 per adult and $30 per child ages 12 and younger. The first course is a choice of a Southern salad, roasted cauliflower soup or sautéed brussel sprouts followed by an entrée of turkey-two-ways, a nine-ounce filet, Sixty South salmon or roasted cauliflower steak. Guests can also choose from a variety of sides and a choice of pumpkin spice cake or a s’mores cake.
The Swamp Fox at Francis Marion Hotel’s Thanksgiving buffet is available from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Nov. 23 in the hotel’s Gold Ballroom. Tickets are $85 per person and include a Bloody Mary
or mimosa as well as dishes like chickpea rotini salad, shrimp and grits, lobster bisque and a selection of meats from the butcher.
Hotel Bennett hosts two Thanksgiving Day events this year. The Brunch Buffet in the hotel’s Crown Ballroom starts at 10:30 a.m., and culinary delights will be served until 2:30 p.m. Anticipate a seafood display, breakfast favorites, a carving station with turkey, prime rib and salmon plus an extensive dessert selection and complimentary Prosecco for adult guests. Reserve your table now for $125 per adult guest and $45 per child younger than 12. Hotel Bennett’s restaurant Gabrielle will also host a prix fixe Thanksgiving Dinner from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. with three courses for $95 per adult.
Middleton Place, home to America’s oldest landscaped gardens, invites guests to a Thanksgiving Day meal at its restaurant with sweeping views of ancient live oaks. Guests can explore the grounds before or after the buffet-style dinner. Seatings are available from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for $89 for adults and $40 for children aged 4 to 13. The buffet includes turkey, ham, stuffing, collards, mac and cheese, desserts and more.
Indulge in an elevated Thanksgiving buffet at Iron Rose, The Mills House’s restaurant and bar. Reservations are available between 11:30 a.m. and 7:30 p.m. Nov. 23. The buffet features three different meat carving stations, seasonal sides, desserts and specialty cocktails. The event is $85 per person and $40 per child.
Come together at The Restoration Hotel downtown Nov. 23 for an all-you-can-eat buffet of classic Thanksgiving dishes. Enjoy roasted turkey, honey-glazed ham and all the fixings for $65 per adult, $30 per child between ages 2 and 12 and free for children younger than 2.
Southern Roots Smokehouse is hosting a Turkey Day celebration from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Nov. 23.
Tempest on Market Street downtown invites guests to enjoy a three-course prix-fixe menu including beet salad, squash bisque, risotto, turkey breast and more this Thanksgiving Day. The experience costs $70 for adults and $30 for children 12 and younger.
Pick-up and catering options
Baguette Magic has all your pastry, bread and dessert needs covered this Thanksgiving. The bakery offers a variety of croissants, breads, loafs, pies and cakes. Baguette Magic also offers fixings like mac and cheese, green bean casserole, herb stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, braised collard green and cranberry sauce. Place your order by Nov. 20 and choose a date and time to pick it up on Folly Road, in Mount Pleasant or in Summerville.
Hamby Catering & Events offers three Thanksgiving menu options that feed eight people. Choose from a traditional whole roasted turkey or bourbon-smoked whole turkey plus roasted garlic red skin mashed potatoes, baked mac and cheese, Southern green beans, cornbread dressing and classic turkey gravy. Hamby’s also offers an appetizer package perfect to bring along if someone else is hosting, or choose from Hamby’s a la carte menu. Orders need to be made at least 24 hours in advance of pick up on Nov. 22.
Jack of Cups Saloon on Folly Beach is accepting Thanksgiving grab ‘n’ go orders until Nov. 20. Orders can be picked up between 10 a.m. and 7 p.m. Nov. 22. The restaurant offers classic holiday dishes like Southern-style mac and cheese and mashed potatoes alongside more unique offerings like pumpkin curry and red curry mac and cheese. Call (843) 633-0042 to place an order.
Mercantile and Mash offers its traditional Thanksgiving dinner to go that feeds six to eight people. Choose an orange rosemary dry rub or a sorghum bourbon glaze for your turkey. Each dinner is $260 and includes cranberry sauce, roasted turkey gravy, house salad, a choice of three sides and a pie. Dinners must be ordered by noon Nov. 18 and can be picked up from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Nov. 22 or 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. Nov. 23.
Want to order a Thanksgiving meal but have dietary restrictions? Nordic Cooking has an organic, plant-based and gluten-free Thanksgiving box available for $299. The box includes petite pumpkins filled with quinoa based filling, house crafted focaccia, Nordic herb butter, whipped potatoes and gravy, vinaigrette salad, stuffing, cranberry relish, cannellini beans and cardamom pumpkin raw cake. The food comes in a wooden crate along with napkins, candles and florals. Delivery is available for the Charleston area and pick-up is between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. Nov. 22.
Poogan’s Porch offers herb-roasted boneless turkey and gravy or certified angus beef prime rib with au jus. You can add sage sausage and cornbread dressing, whipped potatoes, slow-cooked collard greens with bacon, country-style green beans with bacon, Southern-fried corn, cheddar mac and cheese and more. Pre-order by Nov. 19 to pick up on Nov. 22.
Pick up your Thanksgiving meal from Table and Twine or have it delivered this year. Choose from four options: appetizer package, brunch package, Southern sides and apple pie, or the full Thanksgiving package. These options include everything from baked spinach and artichoke dip to an oven-ready whole turkey and all the fixings. Place your order by Nov. 19 for delivery or pick up Nov. 21 or Nov. 22.
Ted’s Butcherblock is making Thanksgiving delicious and easy with fresh all-natural turkey, housemade sides and classic fixings. Order your turkey prepped to cook or have it cooked or smoked at Ted’s. Enjoy cornbread and gator sausage dressing, autumn vegetable gratin, three cheese corn pudding and other dishes as sides. Call (843) 577-0094 to place your order by Nov. 18 to be picked up at Ted’s on Nov. 21 or Nov. 22.
82 Queen has created a $199 Thanksgiving meal for five to seven people that can be picked up at its sister restaurant Jalisco Taqueria on James Island. The meal includes herb roasted turkey breast, collard greens, sausage and sage stuffing, turkey gravy, cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie. Place your order by Nov. 18. Hot pick up is Thanksgiving Day from 10 a.m. to noon. —Mary Martha Beard
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