Suddenly, caviar seemed to be everywhere.
Maybe it’s TikTok. More realistically, though, caviar’s ever-growing popularity is due to prices plummeting in recent years (thanks to sturgeon farming in China).
Restaurants across Charleston serve caviar (see sidebar to learn more about the fishy stuff) in a variety of ways, from full-blown caviar service — think créme fraîche, blini — to more playful interpretations, such as caviar atop chips, smushed in a sandwich and, of course, the omnipresent caviar bump.
As far as the eye can see
“Caviar has been having a moment and it seems like it is everywhere,” said Mike Lata, chef/co-owner of FIG and The Ordinary. “Chefs are having fun with it, serving caviar bumps, topping fried chicken, swirled in sauces, and I’ve seen a number of buttered white bread and caviar sandwiches — and the market seems to be receptive to it.”
And while Lata said that he personally likes caviar in its purest form, you can find it served at The Ordinary with hoe cakes (cornmeal blini), chives, créme fraîche and chopped egg.
You’ll find a similarly extensive caviar service at The Caviar Bar at Zero George, where Regiis Ova Caviar is served with potato chips, jammy eggs, brioche and créme fraîche. Zero George added The Caviar Bar to its culinary offerings in 2022, leaning into the growing trend.
“We see guest bookings increasing on an ongoing basis,” said Dean Porter Andrews, CEO of the Easton Porter Group, the hospitality group behind Zero George. “Industry data has seen caviar production and sales increase by over 9% annually for the last three years and are projected higher going forward as the visibility increases.”
The Caviar Bar was even featured in Bon Appetit’s 2023 list of “unstuffy” caviar bars.
Vinson Petrillo, head chef at The Restaurant at Zero George, hopes to change people’s perception of caviar. “They think they won’t like it,” he said, “because they’ve never had good caviar. When you have your first taste of the good stuff, a light bulb goes on in your head. You get it.”
Upscale Italian restaurant Sorelle also has its skin in the caviar game. Chef Nick Dugan exclusively sources his caviar from a Parisian caviar company, Petrossian.
You can order caviar served with schiacciatina (a flat bread baked at high temperature with a crunchy exterior and fluffy inside topped with parmigiano Reggiano and wild foraged fennel pollen) and burrata di bufala at Sorelle. “It’s an extraordinary preparation of approachable and affordable luxury enjoyed in a relaxed setting,” Dugan said.
You can also order the Tajarin Al Caviale, caviar atop hand-cut pasta — a customer favorite.
“We see guests enjoying caviar in the bar and lounge more than the dining room even, which is atypical in my experience, but super exciting to see that shift,” Dugan said.
Marbled & Fin’s executive chef Eucepe Puntriano said that he’s seen caviar’s star rise over the years. “I believe social media and a lot of fine dining restaurants have been a big influence with this,” he said. “Chefs have now been finding creative and fun approaches to presenting this on their menus.”
At Marbled & Fin, diners can enjoy caviar with the restaurant’s tallow-fried hash browns or crispy potato chips, or atop one of the restaurant’s “luxury bites,” with lobster and madeira foam.
At Chubby Fish, chef James London said that he simply wants to share his love of caviar with his customers. “We try not to take ourselves too seriously,” he said. “We wanted a casual and approachable vehicle for an ingredient that is oftentimes served with way too much pomp and circumstance. We also serve it at cost so that people can indulge without having to lose a paycheck. We do it all for the people.”
At Chubby Fish you’ll find a “caviar sammich” served on a potato roll with créme fraîche.
“There are new supply chains that have opened up and the old gatekeepers of the industry have lost their leases and strangleholds on caviar farms,” London said. “The market is now flooded with great caviar that won’t break the bank so it’s a great time to be a chef.”
Champagne wishes and caviar … whimsy?
While caviar naturally finds itself on menus at seafood-forward restaurants, today’s diners can find caviar in more unlikely locations too, like European-inspired all-day cafes, babas on cannon and babas on meeting.
Babas has a dedicated menu section just for the stuff, with options to have your caviar served with chips, jammy eggs or as a sandwich on toasted brioche. Owner/chef Edward Crouse said that the babas caviar source is “insane.” “He imports, cures and sells 100 % of the North American Hackleback,” Crouse said.
Crouse recommends pairing caviar with cold sherry or A. Margaine Brut Rose Champagne, the latter of which was served at his wedding (alongside three kilos of caviar, naturally).
Frannie & The Fox’s chef Daniel Dalton said that his view on caviar has changed throughout his career and while he admires chefs that have finer tastes, he’s just fine pairing his caviar with kettle-cooked chips and some vodka. Head to The Den, Frannie & The Fox’s martini bar, for classic martini service with the option to add caviar, just as Dalton would like it.
“I also love using caviar as a flavor component for an extra burst of salinity and a touch of ‘fish funk’ — I’m all about the funky,” Dalton said. “At Frannie & the Fox, we take a whimsical approach.” Caviar is paired with classic accoutrement on Italian fried dough called chiacchere.
Craving simple comfort food with finesse? Frannie & The Fox has got you covered with the aptly titled Caviar Pizza, a pie topped with hackleback caviar, smoked salmon, crème fraîche and chives.
At the new Southern tavern, Lowland, chef Jason Stanhope is serving caviar on chicken skewers with yuzu mayo and popped sorghum furikake.
“Sometimes I love unassuming caviar dishes, and sometimes I love classic accoutrements,” he said. “Caviar service is definitely getting more playful. … Regardless of your preference, I say splurge on the style you like (buttery, briny, aged, pearl size/color, etc.) and use it like it doesn’t cost money.”
Stanhope isn’t alone in this recommendation. Babas on Cannon’s Crouse said to “get the absolute best you can afford, even if it means you’re only getting an ounce.” And almost every chef agreed that the best way to eat caviar is by itself. Or, with some cold booze.
“I like to have the caviar itself be the shining star and not overcomplicate it too much with other flavors,” Charleston Grill’s chef de cuisine Suzy Castelloe said.
Marbled & Fin’s Puntriano likes his caviar paired with an “ice-cold martini.” “The clean flavors from ice cold gin or vodka prepare your palate for the rich and decadent flavors from the caviar,” he said.
At the end of the day, though, caviar is still a luxury item, no matter how it’s consumed. And that’s all part of the fun.
“I tend to be a less is more guy in my cooking style,” said Stanhope. “My mentor, Mike Lata, always taught me that when it comes to luxury ingredients: more is more.”
Craving more caviar?
Here are some additional caviar dishes around town. This list is far from extensive — you’ll find caviar are more places than you can throw a stick at!
Gabrielle
Royal Ossetra Caviar with créme fraîche, blini, egg yolk and onion served in 30g or 50g.
Charleston Grill
One ounce tin of Imperial Golden Ossetra with minced shallot, whipped local créme fraîche, grated egg whites, buckwheat blinis and toasted brioche.
NICO
Potato Caviar served with egg yolk, roe, caviar, créme fraîche, fried capers.
Caviar Oyster, served with creme fraiche, chives, egg yolk, made our house Bekah Bay and N.C. oysters.
NICO Beef Tartare with grilled cheese, caviar, egg yolk dijon mustard, fried capers.
The Establishment (Menu varies but often includes caviar.)
Tuna Tart, bluefin tuna tossed with finely diced Fresno pepper and ponzu, in a savory pastry tart, and topped with a bump of Golden Ossetra Caviar and chive.
A recent raw oyster iteration includes gin-soaked cucumbers, créme fraîche, and Golden Ossetra Caviar.
Caviar Bump Service — an off-menu option offered on NYE and on special occasions.
Bar 167
The Caviar Cone is served with Siberian caviar in a salted waffle cone with parmesan custard and chive.
Estadio
Rotating menu items: Deviled egg with caviar and the squid ink potato with caviar.
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