The tantalising smells and sizzles of food on the grill is a soundtrack to a memorable Lowcountry summer. With the holiday weekend upon us, three of Charleston’s most talented chefs share their advice on the best ways to grill meat, seafood and vegetables.
Make the most of Lowcountry seafood
Alex Eaton, executive chef at modern Spanish restaurant and bar Estadio, blends flavors from the American South and the Iberian peninsula. While her menu beautifully presents vegetables like Brussels sprouts with anchovy butter and crispy leeks as well as meat dishes like Iberico ham wrapped truffled Spanish tortilla, seafood shines on her menus.
When grilling seafood, Eaton tries to keep it simple.
“I avoid sugary sauces since they burn easily over direct flame,” she said. “Let the seafood shine, especially when it’s fresh and local. I still like to play with herbs and spices, just with a little restraint.”
She said she likes to soak applewood chips and add them to charcoal for an extra smoky flavor. She also uses high heat. With fish, she recommends starting skin side down and putting a grill lid over the seafood to achieve a crispy skin and to cook things through like they are in an oven.
What is Eaton’s favorite seafood to grill during a Lowcountry summer?
“I love grilling fish collars because they get super crispy and flavorful, and shrimp with a big spoonful of chimichurri on top.”
Eaton noted her favorite pairing for seafood is zucchini, squash and onions since they can stand up to the high heat from the grill.
Eaton recommends seafood grillmasters buy as fresh as possible at individual local markets, not grocery stores.
- Estadio is located at 122 Spring St. More: estadio-chs.com
Vegetables as the star
There are few people who know how to prepare vegetables like Kevin Johnson, chef and owner of downtown’s The Grocery and Mount Pleasant’s Lola Rose. From The Grocery’s mainstay wood-roasted peaches with tasso ham, shishito pepper and goat cheese to Lola Rose’s field pea hummus with feta, vegetables are the star of the show on Johnson’s menus.
When preparing vegetables, he does not marinate them before putting them on the grill.
“I like to season them with salt, pepper and a generous drizzle of olive oil,” he said. “After they come off the grill, I’ll dress them with a flavorful vinaigrette, always with lots of fresh herbs and something acidic like lemon juice or champagne vinegar to brighten them up.”
Johnson noted that his favorite vegetables to grill in the summer are okra and summer squash. He recommends skewing okra on long sticks to make them easier to turn and for the squash, he halves and chars them, then lets them cool before thinly slicing to get a taste of both char and crisp in every bite.
To prepare the grill, he recommends using hardwood charcoal, and his preference is to cook vegetables over high heat for a shorter amount of time to get a quick char and crunch.
“I like to pair vegetables with even more vegetables,” he said when asked for his recommendation for a grilled vegetable accompaniment. “A mix of raw and grilled is great. For example, a grilled squash salad with some shaved raw squash is delicious. And you absolutely have to have some fresh sliced tomatoes seasoned with salt, pepper, olive oil and a handful of herbs. For something more substantial, I’ll add a grain salad packed with even more vegetables.”
- The Grocery is located at 4 Cannon St. and Lola Rose is at 3540 Park Ave. in Mount Pleasant. More: thegrocerycharleston.com and lolarosemtp.com
Grill good cuts of meat
Wagener Terrace favorite Herd Provisions is a restaurant, market and whole animal butcher shop. Executive chef Jeanne Oleksiak reimagines classic French, Asian, Italian and Latin dishes, and much of the beef on the menu is sourced from Leaping Waters Farm in Virginia, owned by Herd Provisions’ owner Alec Bradford.
The Herd Provisions menu offers everything from lamb tartare with cilantro salsa verde and mole to a pork chop with cheddar and caramelized onion butter. But when it comes to the grill, Oleksiak is partial to a steak.
“Beef is always my first pick,” she said. “There’s just something about a perfectly grilled steak. I also love pork — chops, tenderloin, and ribs are all great on the grill. And chicken is super versatile, whether it’s whole or broken down into parts.”
Herd Provisions sells retail cuts of meat that are sustainably raised, grass-fed and grass-finished, and has a team ready to help shoppers find the perfect cut. Oleksiak does note that “some grocery stores carry solid options too. Look for sustainable and grass-fed labels when you can.”
Oleksiak’s approach to prepping meat for the grill depends on the protein and the cut.
“I like to brine chops to keep them juicy, and with chicken, I’ll either brine or marinate depending on the flavor I’m going for,” she said. “Garlic is always part of the equation, and I love using rosemary and oregano. When it comes to finishing, I usually go for a simple butter infused with herbs.”
Oleksiak uses wood or hardwood charcoal, and grill temperature and cooking time also depend on the protein and cut.
“For pork chops, tenderloin or steak, I go hot and fast to get a good sear,” she shared. “But if I’m doing ribs or pork butts, it’s low and slow to build flavor and tenderness.”
Every great piece of grilled meat deserves a stellar side and Oleksiak favors those that are seasonal and balanced. Her favorites are “local veggies, potatoes, something bright and acidic like a salad. And, if I want to make it extra comforting, mac and cheese always hits the spot.”
- Herd Provisions is located at 106 Grove St. More: herdprovisions.com
Help keep the City Paper free.
No paywalls.
No subscription cost.
Free delivery at 800 locations.
Help support independent journalism by donating today.