Julia Childs once wisely said that “one can judge the quality of a cook by his or her roast chicken.” While chicken is often considered a simple food, it is also one that is very easy to mess up. Overcook it by seconds, and it will be dry. Roast it at the wrong temperature and the skin won’t crisp. Under season it? It’s bland.
But when a chicken is cooked properly, it could be considered the perfect food. It pairs well with just about any starch and vegetable, and it’s a beautiful carrier for sauce. Leftovers can be made into a chicken salad or sliced for a sandwich. Bones can be used for stock, making it both sustainable and a gift that keeps on giving.
Chicken is also a food that has endless interpretations across different cultures. Many Charleston chefs have chicken as a mainstay on their menus, and we spoke with a few who prepare a perfect bird.
Mario’s Peruvian poultry
Brothers Mario Allen and Mario Chris Obregon opened Mario’s Peruvian Chicken in Mount Pleasant in 2018 to bring the taste of their native Peru to the Lowcountry. A North Charleston location opened in 2023, and the two restaurants prepare a chicken inspired by a recipe the Obregons’ grandmother developed.
“My whole idea to bring my food to the Lowcountry was that I wanted to offer something that is healthy and a bargain for a family,” said brother Mario C.
Authenticity is the name of the game at Mario’s. Traditionally, Peruvian chicken is herb-crusted and marinated for 24-hours before being cooked over charcoal. Mario C. spent a year recipe testing to perfect the menu, and he produces up to 40 gallons of marinade each week.
Capturing authenticity also meant traveling to Peru to source custom brick ovens. The brothers wanted ovens that would stand out and allow customers to see the cooking process.
While the chicken packs a punch and could be binged on its own, the Peruvian sauces take it to another level. Using peppers unfamiliar in the American south, Mario’s sauces include an aji amarillo (with mild yellow peppers) and an aji rocoto (red peppers with a bit more kick). Peppers are imported frozen fresh from Peru.
“I guess the key to my success is consistency since day one. I never changed the recipe. I never tried to be cheap and buy lesser quality ingredients,” Mario C. said.
And this commitment to flavor and process can be tasted in every bite.
Giving thanks for the Merci chicken
Merci, a charming bistro on the corner of Pitt and Montagu Streets, has been sharing its European-inspired menu since March 2025. The restaurant comes from Chef Michael Zentner and his wife Courtney. Its chicken is a labor of love.
The Merci bird is slow-cooked and served with braised greens and moutarde violette.
“The chicken is probably my favorite dish in the restaurant,” Zentner said. “I wanted this chicken to be a chicken that others look up to.” And he achieved that goal.
After butchering the birds, the team lays them on wire racks and lets them dry for a minimum of two days. This is the same trick with Peking duck; the drying process makes the skin easier to caramelize. When it comes to cooking, once in the pan, a brick is used which aids even cooking and crisping the skin.
And just as importantly: the sauce. It was inspired by a sauce Zentner prepared at a previous job that used moutarde violette, a French purple mustard made from the winemaking process. It is a Dijon with tannins, and he uses one part moutarde violette, one part tarragon butter and one part chicken jus for the sauce.
“We work hard to make the chicken,” he said. “Restaurants are all about proper technique and following procedures, and we take them very seriously. The chicken is one that has a lot of procedural drama to it.”
Chicken with an Italian spin
Italian restaurant Indaco almost always has chicken on the menu, and the current iteration is a roasted half chicken with Parmesan grits, a spicy Arrabbiata-style tomato sauce and wood-fired broccolini.
“At Indaco, we have had a half-roasted chicken on the menu basically since we opened our doors,” Executive Chef Tito Marino said. “We bring in all natural chickens from Joyce Farms. Buying a great product really does most of the work for us.
We butcher the chickens and brine them for a few hours to further bump up the flavor and moisture.”
This thoughtful prep sets the chicken up for dinnertime success.
“During service, we roast [the chickens] in our wood-fired pizza oven, which gives them a crispy skin and light smokiness. We wanted to bring a modern take to old school Italian flavors, while utilizing some of the best products the south has to offer.”
Chicken at Le Cave
Executive Chef Alex Eaton uses a poulet rouge for her chicken dish at Le Cave. French for “red chicken,” poulet rouge is a heritage breed that is known for its dense meat, rich flavor and delicate skin that crisps easily.
Like Indaco, Le Cave sources chicken from Joyce Farms, based in Winston-Salem, N.C. Joyce Farms has transformed chicken in the United States by combining French genetics with a natural, slow growth. This produces chickens that are pasture raised and air chilled, which helps preserve the flavor and texture.
“My favorite thing to do is bring France and the Lowcountry together, and they really shake hands in our Poulet Rouge,” Eaton said.
Le Cave’s Joyce Farms half chicken is served with herbes de Provence, beurre blanc (a classic French sauce made with emulsified butter) and roasted seasonal vegetables. The chicken is finished in the oven over cipollini onions and a pad of butter. This adds richness and juiciness while maintaining the crispiness. The beurre blanc is served on the side so nothing compromises the texture of the skin.
“My favorite compliment to hear is, ‘that’s the best chicken I’ve ever had.’ Chicken is something we’ve all had a hundred different ways. When someone says that, it tells me the technique, experience and care behind the dish elevated a humble ingredient into something truly memorable.”
And these are words Julia Child would swear by.
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