Devour those hearts and rake some leaves — artichoke season is here. Admired for its tender hearts and pointy leaves, this “vegetable” is often misunderstood in the land of more straightforward fare like sweet potatoes and collard greens. What to think of a food that is eaten by first stripping it to the core or raking its pulpy leaves with one’s teeth? While the visuals may not be desirable for a first date or formal affair, there are plenty of ways to enjoy artichokes without compromising impressions or table manners.
But first, a clarification: In South Carolina, “artichoke” may refer to the Jerusalem artichoke, also known as the sunchoke, which is not an artichoke at all but the root of a plant from the sunflower family. These tubers are typically used for relishes or pickles. The topic in this story is real artichokes with rounded bottoms and compact, green and/or purplish leafy layers.
Edible buds, Southern roots
Understanding artichokes and how to eat them requires a botanical breakdown. Neither a fruit nor a true vegetable, they are the flower buds of a Mediterranean plant related to the thistle.
Harvested before blossoming into a lilac-colored flower, the bud has four main parts: the stem, leaves (also called scales or petals), choke and heart. Of those, the fuzzy, prickly choke is removed and discarded. Everything else is pleasingly edible once cooked.
The stems and cup-like bottoms are delicious with olive oil, salt and pepper. Once steamed or baked, the leaves can be plucked and dipped in butter with lemon, if desired. To get the tender pulp, the undersides of the leaves are scraped against the teeth. The leaf is then discarded.
The technique is mastered early in Sicilian and Italian households, where breadcrumb- and cheesestuffed artichokes grace dinner tables and are a staple of food-laden St. Joseph’s altars each March.
In fact, Sicilian immigrants brought artichokes to the continent, where they appeared in Southern gardens along the Gulf far before tomatoes hit the scene. New Orleans, specifically, was the hub of Southern artichoke commerce during the 1800s as Sicilians made their contributions to the local food culture.
Schemes and kings
While Sicilians were hyping artichokes in the bayou, California farmers near Castroville were successfully cultivating them and seeing bumper crops. Around 1917, they began shipping artichokes to the north where Sicilian and Italian families willingly paid higher prices to get a cherished taste of their homelands.
The profits being made caught the eye of a New York City underboss, Ciro Terranova. Through extortion, kidnapping and mobster beat-downs, he took possession of artichokes from local push-cart vendors, upped prices and cornered the market. Hence, the “Artichoke King” was born.
A 1935 article in The New York Times reports how Mayor Fiorella La Guardia finally ended the reign of terror by prohibiting the sale and possession of artichokes.
“I like artichokes, particularly with hollandaise sauce,” he said, commiserating with the dismayed Italian community.
Now a banned substance, artichoke demand skyrocketed and families smuggled them into their kitchens to be secretly consumed. In 1936, criminal investigations led to prosecutions and, finally, the lifting of artichoke prohibition. The mayor’s strategy worked, and the racketeering operation shut down.
Two years later, the “Artichoke King” died without a penny or an artichoke to his name — a cruel fate for those who love artichokes.
Hearts on fire
For a lot of people, the heart of the artichoke is where it’s at and considered the most scrumptious component. That is one reason artichoke heart dishes are hot options at area restaurants.
Artichoke dip, for example, is an appetizer darling you can depend on. Rich and filling, it has joined the ranks of the mozzarella stick and fried pickle as a pretty sure thing across the spectrum of dining options. When a meal begins with “artichoke dip for the table” it is often the precursor to “we need a couple of carryout boxes” at the end.
While proprietors love artichoke hearts as a low-cost, crowd-pleaser with high upsell potential, Southern diners often experience it as a gateway dish — a primer, of sorts, for further artichoke exploration. In Charleston, there are plenty of opportunities for broadening your horizons.
For a Mediterranean treat, try the artichoke moussaka at Stella’s on St. Philip Street, a hearty casserole of artichoke hearts, potato, fennel, caramelized onion and zucchini baked with grated cheese and bechamel.
A rustic yet refined small-plate option at Le Farfalle, braised artichokes with Napa cabbage, white wine, garlic, breadcrumbs and Parmigiano, is a lovely way to slip into dinner mode.
Neighborhood sandwich and supper spot, Berkeley’s, shows that artichoke love is a practical yet many-splendored thing with several appearances on the menu.
“Berkeley’s is small and we don’t have a luxurious amount of storage space, so ingredients on our menu need to be able to perform well in multiple dishes in order to make the cut,” said co-owner Liz Hudascko. “This makes artichokes a perfect ingredient, because they can be used in so many ways.”
Among them is a creamy kale and artichoke gratin.
“The recipe came from our opening chef, Chad Healey, when prompted to make the best spin-dip ever,” Hudascko said. “Warm and cheesy with house-made Boursin, we wanted to have it on the menu as an indulgent vegetarian shareable.”
Also on the menu are a tangy Greek salad with marinated artichoke hearts, crispy fried artichoke hearts with “grandma sauce” and lemon aioli and a two-fisted sandwich stuffed with lightly seasoned and fried artichoke hearts.
“We top it with shredded lettuce, tomato and red onion, and serve it on the same amoroso roll as our cheesesteaks and chicken cutlets,” Hudascko said. “The ‘Fried Artie’ has a po-boy vibe and is such a fun way to have a vegetarian sandwich that satisfies.”
Outlier in a Southern garden
It is true that artichokes are an unusual sight in South Carolina gardens. While a tricky undertaking, they are not impossible to grow. Charlotte James of Relinoca Farms in Sumter says it can be done with a keen understanding of the plant’s needs and some adaptations to growing conditions.
“Artichokes can be finicky because they don’t like hot summers and cold winters,” she said.
“They are originally from a Mediterranean climate, so trying to mimic that by using shade cloth during the summer and mulch during the winter will go a long way to protecting these weather-persnickety plants.”
Coastal areas of South Carolina like Charleston, where the winters are mild, can be far more artichoke-friendly than other areas. James sells the Green Globe variety of artichokes because they taste great and have the ability to become perennial. While they prefer full sun, that can be a bit too punishing in South Carolina.
“We recommend allowing artichokes six hours of sun — morning sun is preferable — followed by shade or partial shade for the rest of the day,” James said. “If done successfully, artichoke blooms will be ready to harvest around four to five months after germination.”
But if your thumb isn’t green or your kitchen specialty is boiling water, it’s nice to know you can indulge your artichoke cravings at places like Berkeley’s.
“Once you realize how good fried artichokes are, you will feel compelled to eat an entire bowl of them,” Hudascko said. “Can’t beat them, especially with a glass of rosé and a spring evening on the patio.”
Grilled artichokes with lemon-garlic aioli
By Libby Wiersema
Ingredients
- 4 fresh, whole artichokes
- 2 tbsp. olive oil
- 1 tbsp. butter
- 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
- Red pepper flakes (optional)
- 2 pinches of salt, divided
For aioli
- ¾ cup mayonnaise
- 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
- 3 cloves of garlic, minced
- 1 tbsp. chopped fresh herbs (dill, parsley, basil or a mix)
Method
Prepare charcoal for grilling. If using propane, heat to medium high (around 350 degrees) about 10 minutes before grilling.
Fill a pot large enough to hold artichokes with water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil. (If artichokes are large, use two pots.)
Rinse and dry artichokes. Trim ½ inch from the stem and strip the outer layer with a peeler.
With a sharp knife, slice 1 inch off the top of the artichoke. Use scissors to trim any pointy tips from the leaves.
Add artichokes to boiling water, reduce heat to medium, cover and cook for 25 minutes.
In a bowl, combine aioli ingredients and refrigerate.
Using tongs, remove artichokes and place top side down on a rack or paper towels to drain. Cool for 5 minutes.
Transfer artichokes to a cutting board and halve each vertically with a sharp knife.
Using a grapefruit spoon or other serrated tool, gently scrape out the fuzzy choke, leaving the heart intact.
Combine olive oil, butter, lemon juice, red pepper flakes (if desired) and pinch of salt.
Microwave just until butter melts. Whisk and brush on cut side of each artichoke half.
Spread hot coals (if using), adjust grill grate to middle position, and arrange artichoke halves, cut side down. (Use a spray bottle for flare-ups.)
Cover and grill artichokes for about 10 minutes or until cut side is golden brown. Using a spatula, gently turn the artichokes over. Grill for another 5 minutes and remove to a platter.
To serve, arrange two artichoke halves on each plate, divide aioli into bowls, pass the napkins and enjoy.
Help keep the City Paper free.
No paywalls.
No subscription cost.
Free delivery at 800 locations.
Help support independent journalism by donating today.