When French restaurant stalwart Rue de Jean opened in 2001, Charleston was a different city. It was still a sleepy town that had not yet catapulted onto the national culinary scene. The average price of a home was $218,000 compared to today’s $594,000. The 2001 population was around 313,000 versus today’s, which has climbed over 425,000. While much has changed both on the peninsula and in the surrounding areas, Rue de Jean has held steady as a Charleston favorite.
“It’s a huge accomplishment to take a restaurant that’s been around for as long as it has and keep building and keep getting better and better,” said Tony Cuajunco, the director of operations for Holy City Hospitality, which owns and operates the restaurant. “That’s why we celebrate Rue de Jean.”
A Charleston chef at the helm
Executive Chef Letha McClary, a native of Kingstree, is now leading the kitchen. McClary started at Rue de Jean in May 2022 and became executive chef in 2024. Like many of the best chefs, she started cooking as a child with her father and grandmother.
A 2018 graduate of the Art Institute of Charleston, she began her professional journey as a line cook at 82 Queen, training under Marcus Shell. When Shell transitioned to Rue de Jean, McClary followed.
Rue de Jean’s menu has always stuck close to classics. Dishes like chicken Francese, coq au vin, shrimp Provençal, the burger, mussels, trout almondine and crème brûlée have been on the menu since opening day. McClary continues to cook the French canon, but has put her own spin on these dishes by tweaking them with different ingredients or presentations.
“I listen to the customer feedback,” she said. “With the coq au vin, we had a lot of people order it with mashed potatoes on the side. I said ‘let’s try mashed potatoes on the dish’ and a lot of people liked it.” It’s a simple pivot, but one that has enhanced a longstanding dish.
Another big part of McClary’s process is this direct interaction with guests. Now that her kitchen is a well-oiled machine, she has time to visit the floor during service. Comments from diners are not only welcomed, but an integral part of her cuisine.
“I want to keep the staples,” McCleary said. “And try to do something with the same dishes and bring different flavors and ideas to the menu. And make sure the customers are happy.”
“That’s the thing with Rue de Jean,” Cuajunco said. “To be such a locally driven restaurant and for people to give feedback. The greatest thing we can do is take that feedback. If we don’t know, we can’t fix something. Palates have changed. Some people are eating lighter and some people are eating heavier. Let’s take the best of everybody’s feedback. We try it and if it makes sense and the guests love it, we run with it.”
“She just has a passion for food,” Cuajunco continued. “That’s what I love about Letha. Her passion for food and to get in there and be creative. She’s got her hands in everything in the kitchen.”
When you operate a restaurant for over two decades, you see good and bad economies and the effects they both can have on the bottom line.
“When we reopened after Covid, there were some dishes that didn’t make it back on the menu because of the fact that we wanted to keep it affordable for guests, but still put a great product on the plate,” Cuajunco said. It’s the ability to look at this bigger picture and pivot when needed that is part of Rue de Jean’s secret to longevity.
A legacy continues
During the 25th anniversary year, Rue de Jean will host events and experiences to celebrate. On June 10, July 16 and August 9, the restaurant is hosting wine dinners with only six tickets available for each. These intimate meals will feature special tasting menus with wine pairings.
Throughout the year, a “Champagne bell” will be rung at surprise moments and when it rings, the entire restaurant will receive a complimentary glass of bubbles.
Whether you are considering a first visit to Rue de Jean or looking to revisit it, the team is as committed as ever to serving a reliable, soul nourishing menu.
“We stay consistent and a lot of our employees have been here for a long time,” Cuajunco said. “When you take care of people and give them respect and give them a way of having a work-life balance, they stay. When you have people that stay and do their jobs and do it right, that’s how you stay consistent.
“There is a true meaning of hospitality, and I teach this to everybody. The meaning of hospitality is genuine care and concern for the customer’s dollar. And it’s genuine and you can’t fake hospitality. You either have it or you don’t have it.”
And this dedication to hospitality remains Rue de Jean’s guiding principle, which very well might propel it to another 25 years.
“It’s not just a place to go eat,” Cuajunco said. “It’s a place to go have an experience and eat at the same time.”
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