Winter sweetens the deal for an elevated greens experience

Eat your greens

As we plod knee-deep through the drudgery of winter, the taste of tomato sandwiches and buttered corn-on-the-cob consigned to precious memory, let us train our gastronomic eye upon the season of cool-weather greens.

The South Carolina diet is anchored by a variety of leafy staples: pungent mustard and turnip greens, kale of all sorts, colorful chards and abundantly grown collards, so beloved they were named the official state vegetable in 2011. While harvested year-round in this region, greens take on sweeter notes when things get a bit chilly. That is because the colder temperatures trigger the transfer of water from leaf to root, thereby upping sugar concentrations. A few light frosts, and it is prime time for picking of the greens.

Nutritionally, greens hit the plate packing as they are high in vitamins, calcium and properties that help lower cholesterol and cancer risks. Mama knew she was doing you a solid by insisting you eat your fair share. Perhaps she added a smoky ham hock, a little sugar or splash of vinegar (or all three) to the pot to enhance the flavor profile and mask whatever was disagreeable to your youthful palate. My Sicilian mother mixed cooked collards with garlic, onion, breadcrumbs, egg and pecorino cheese to make vegetable fritters known in Italy as subrich (soo-brick). To this day, these crusty, savory patties are a go-to comfort food of mine.
While the versatility and health benefits of greens are impressive, the most prized pay-off for Southerners is likely the good luck thought to be imparted by a New Year’s meal of greens, peas and pork. Even we who eschew superstition 364 days a year tend to be believers on that one auspicious day.

But back to the sweet talk: The time for an elevated greens experience is now. The dipping temps not only mean milder greens, but it may signal your best chance to change the minds of those turned off by the bitter taste and funky bouquet greens emit while simmering.

To that end, here are three of my favorite greens recipes, each infused with the potential to turn haters into lovers while also awakening a routine winter menu.

Ribollita

I first had this hearty, greens-packed, bread-thickened vegetarian stew in Tuscany in 2016. It has been a staple of my cold-weather repertoire ever since. You can buy Tuscan kale (also called Italian kale, dinosaur kale or Lacinato kale) from area growers or at local grocers like Harris Teeter and Whole Foods.

Ingredients
1/3 cup of good quality extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
3 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 stalks of celery, washed
and chopped
2 bunches of Tuscan kale, washed, stemmed and chopped
1 28-ounce can of Italian
whole tomatoes
1 bay leaf, broken in half
Leaves from 2 sprigs of fresh thyme
Leaves from 2 sprigs of fresh oregano
½ cup dry red wine
1 15-ounce can of cannellini beans, drained
½ loaf of day-old Italian bread,
torn into pieces
4 cups water
Parmesan rind
Crushed red pepper flakes to taste
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. ground pepper
Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

Method
Empty tomatoes and juice in a large bowl and crush by hand until there are no large pieces. Set aside. In a cast iron soup pot over medium heat, sauté first four ingredients in olive oil until softened and aroma blooms in the air. (Do not brown.) Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add kale and tomatoes with juice and herbs. Cook for 5 minutes. Pour in red wine and cook for another 3 minutes, then fold in cannellini beans. Drop half the torn bread into the pot and stir gently, then incorporate the water. Add the Parmesan rind and red pepper. Heat through. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Top with remaining bread pieces, drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil, and slide the pot into the oven. Bake for 15 minutes or until bread is golden brown. Ladle into bowls and top with shaved Parmesan or Pecorino Romano.

Italian Collard Fritters (Subrich)

A great way to use leftover greens. All kinds work in this recipe, so feel free to substitute.

Ingredients
4 cups of cooked, chopped collards, drained
3 cloves of garlic, minced
½ of an onion, minced
2 eggs
¾ cup of fine breadcrumbs
3 Tbsp. grated Pecorino Romano cheese (may substitute Parmesan Reggiano)
¼ tsp. kosher salt
¹⁄8 tsp. ground black pepper
Olive oil for frying

Method
Place cooled, cooked greens in a large mixing bowl. Add remaining ingredients (except oil), and mix well. Mixture should be moist and hold form as you shape them into patties. If too loose, add more breadcrumbs, a tablespoon at a time until desired consistency. In a heavy skillet, fry fritters in olive oil (turning once) over medium heat until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve.

Shredded Collards with Walnuts and Pickled Apples

Chef Patty Griffey, former proprietor of the Latta country inn, Abingdon Manor, taught me to make this crunchy, raw collard salad years ago. A great dish any time of year, it will put a little spring in your winter step.

Ingredients
For pickled apples:
2 Gala apples, cored and cut into ¹⁄8-inch wedges
½ cup cider vinegar
1 cup water
½ cup sugar
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. pickling spice

For dressing:
½ cup walnut halves
¼ cup of olive oil
1 bunch of collards, washed and de-ribbed
Salt and pepper to taste

Method
Bring vinegar, water, sugar, salt and pickling spice to a boil in a saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Add apples and return to a boil. Transfer apples and mixture to a heatproof bowl, cool, then chill until cold.

In a small skillet over medium heat, toast walnuts in oil until they darken a shade. Remove from heat and let cool. With a slotted spoon, transfer walnuts to a cutting board. (Reserve oil.) Coarsely chop 1 tablespoon of nuts and finely chop the remainder.

Stack collard leaves and tightly roll into a “cigar.” Slice crosswise into ½-inch strips. Transfer to a large bowl. Add finely chopped walnuts and reserved oil. Toss with salt and pepper to taste. Drain pickled apples and add to the bowl. Toss again. Garnish servings with coarsely chopped walnuts.