The vegetable plate is something of an icon on the Southern culinary landscape. Like sweet tea and caramel cake, it might be found above the Mason Dixon line, but certainly not in abundance. Referred to casually as the “veg plate,” this dish is easy to come by in Charleston, ranging from those found at “meat and three” spots to some more refined versions. All satisfy that craving for a big mess of veggies, but it must be noted that many of them are not strictly vegetarian. Historically, most Southerners cook their vegetables with at least a little meat (a ham hock or such), and locally most chefs stick with this tradition.
Chef Robert Stehling of Hominy Grill traces the vegetable plate back to the South’s agrarian roots and high poverty level. He notes that these early settlers were forced to live off the vegetables they could grow, and that a bit of meat cooked with them might be the only meat in the entire meal.
Today, the vegetable plate still holds a special place in culinary culture, and summertime just might be the perfect occasion to seek one out. The abundance of fresh, local vegetables inspires chefs and reconnects even the most urban soul to the land that has fed generations.
Fiery Ron’s Home Team BBQ
$6.45
West Ashley. 1205 Ashley River Road
(843) 225-RIBS
Ordering strictly vegetables at a barbecue joint might seem a bit moronic, but we beg to differ. Barbecue restaurants generally have a long list of sides with which to create your own favorite vegetable plate, and newcomer Fiery Ron’s Home Team BBQ does not disappoint. They offer a plethora of starches ranging from creamy grits to red rice, and they cover the standard barbecue accompaniments like Brunswick stew, coleslaw, and baked beans. They put their own spin on mac ‘n’ cheese by using Gouda along with the cheddar, and they spice it up with a healthy dose of whole-grain mustard. Their perfectly tender and tangy (no need even to add pepper vinegar) collard greens admirably anchor a veg plate. Now, we just need to get back there when they have broccoli and cheese casserole featured as their side of the day.
FIG
$18
Downtown. 232 Meeting St.
(843) 805-5900
It should come as no surprise that Chef Mike Lata loves vegetables. Numerous articles detail his passion for seasonal, local produce, and he showcases his vegetables of the day on a large chalkboard at the front of the restaurant. However, you will not find a vegetable plate listed on the menu or talked about in the server’s spiel. But ask and you shall receive. The choices will be dictated by availability and by your own eating parameters. Chef Lata will gladly prepare a strictly vegetarian plate or a semi-vegetarian plate. Since the seasons sets his menu, it is difficult to pinpoint what you might find in late summer, but expect local vegetables prepared with a minimalist approach. A mid-summer selection featured roasted beets with balsamic vinegar, potato puree with bordelaise sauce, squash with black olive tapenade, cauliflower with mustard butter, red Russian kale, and sautéed spinach with raisins and pine nuts. In his own words, Chef Lata takes the vegetable plate as seriously as any other dish in the restaurant, and his efforts resound.
Hominy Grill
$8.95
Downtown. 207 Rutledge Ave.
(843) 937-0930
Chef Stehling used to offer a set vegetable plate, but he finally decided that the customers could simply choose for themselves. That freedom certainly inspires creativity, but we bet there’s a good amount of indecision given the myriad of options. Our advice would be to choose at least a couple of seasonal vegetables, since Stehling swears an allegiance to local farmers, especially in the height of summer. During this bountiful season, he might spend an entire afternoon making fresh corn pudding, and you can rest assured that his limas are not the frozen variety. His cucumber salad hits a perfect balance between sweetness and acidity, and his fried squash melts in the mouth. Vegetarians can find some comfort here as most of Chef Stehling’s vegetables are not cooked with meat. Just ask your server for confirmation.
Kitty’s Diner
$4.99
Downtown. 1137 Morrison Dr.
(843) 722-9370
Chef Martha Grant bought Kitty’s Diner from its longtime owner in November 2006. Since then, she has given the 30-year-old soul food restaurant a bit of a facelift. You will still find the same quaint dining room and lunch counter, but Grant has a culinary finesse that comes across in her dishes. This could be attributed to her degree from Johnson & Wales University or simply to an innate drive. Maybe that’s what makes her vegetable plate so special. Her fried green tomatoes seem feather light thanks to an excellent frying technique, and they come with a sweet white remoulade that proves the perfect complement. Stewed cabbage bears no resemblance to the bland, overcooked concoction served in many a cafeteria line. Instead, Grant finds that coveted middle ground, and her addition of carrots livens up the dish. Lima beans come laden with pork but are not overwhelmingly salty, and her macaroni and cheese showcases a thick layer of cheddar. Chef Grant is determined to impress upon old and new customers of Kitty’s that her cooking can only add to the culinary heritage of this location.
Martha Lou’s Kitchen
$6.00
Downtown. 1068 Morrison Dr.
(843) 577-9583
Anyone who has ever been up Morrison Drive has certainly noticed the bright pink façade of Martha Lou’s Kitchen. While the exterior is eye-catching, the real treat lies inside. There, Martha Lou Gadsen has been cooking up soul food classics like chitterlings and fried chicken since 1983, and she will even put together a vegetable plate if you ask nicely. I ordered greens, lima beans, okra soup, and giblet rice (all daily specials), and then found myself with plenty of time to gather the history of the tiny dining room. From the gold vinyl tablecloths to the non-functioning deli case filled with nativity scenes and family photos, this place surely tells a story. There are newspaper clippings detailing the civil rights movement and others that simply praise the restaurant. All seem as apropos as Martha Lou’s well-seasoned veggies. This vegetable plate is clearly the work of someone who has cooked these dishes time and time again. The greens and limas are as salty as the ocean, and they provide the perfect contrast to the okra soup, which is really okra stewed in a sweet tomato sauce. The giblet rice did not seem to be loaded down with giblets but rather with simple roasted turkey, bringing to mind a Thanksgiving medley. All of this washed down well with Martha Lou’s super sugary and lemony iced tea, which just might be a required accoutrement for the meal.
Seewee Restaurant
$7.95
Awendaw. 4808 Hwy 17 N.
(843) 928-3609
There are certain restaurants that fry food better than others, and Seewee is one of them — but that’s not saying fried vegetables dominate. After all, Seewee offers 18 side dishes, and that’s not including any daily specials. Consequently, choosing four sides for your vegetable plate can prove a challenge. A must: the fried green tomatoes, which are thinly sliced, dusted with flour, fried to perfection, and served with a tart red remoulade. On the lighter side, their steamed squash comes lightly seasoned and cooked just enough — revealing the true character of good summer squash. Real mashed potatoes come with homemade gravy, and Seewee’s red rice rivals any I’ve tried. In short, it’s hard to go wrong at Seewee, where high standards rule the kitchen.
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