Charleston is spoiled when it comes to tomatoes. The city typically gets its peak summer crop in June and July, and then a second round ripens in September into October. That means everyone’s favorite summer produce — technically a fruit! — can be enjoyed for months.
While you can find some exceptional tomato dishes at restaurants in town, such as FIG’s famous tomato tarte, it’s hard to beat biting into one at home. Looking for inspiration on ways to use the abundance of late summer tomatoes? Check out these ideas from some of the city’s cuisine stars.
A tomato sandwich buffet
Becca Watson, assistant director at GrowFood Carolina, shared an annual tradition that takes place at the local food hub.
“Fifteen years ago, GrowFood Carolina opened its doors, and after 15 summers of local tomatoes, we’ve found our favorite way to kick off tomato season — with a tomato sandwich buffet,” Watson said.
“When the first heirlooms of the season arrived in June, we bought a 10-pound flat, cracked open a fresh jar of Duke’s mayonnaise, grabbed a loaf of Captain John Derst’s bread and ate tomato sandwiches in the staff kitchen every day until they were gone. By late summer, when the tomato racks are spilling over, it’s fun to come back to those same three simple ingredients and remember just how much we craved that first tomato sandwich of the year.”
She also said you can spread the love when you have more tomatoes than you can eat.
“You don’t need a warehouse full of produce enthusiasts pontificating over their favorite tomato varieties to host your own tomato sandwich buffet. Most folks already have a jar of mayo in the fridge and a loaf of bread on the counter. All you need are the tomatoes and a few good people to share them with.”
Four ideas of what to do with lots of tomatoes:
“Set up a tomato sandwich buffet at work.
“Drop a few tomatoes on your neighbor’s doorstep.
“Bring a bag to your next hair appointment or your next mahjong game.
“Or, as school starts back, load your kid up with a few tomato surcees for their teachers to make a good first impression.”
A tomato-centric pesto
Kiki Luthringshausen, a co-owner of Luther’s Market downtown, makes an easy Sicilian pesto when she’s sitting on extra tomatoes.
“A great way to use an abundance of tomatoes, especially ripe ones, is the Sicilian version of pesto called pesto alla trapanese,” she said. “Basically, you’re swapping out pine nuts for almonds or walnuts and adding tomatoes to your traditional basil pesto.”
She added that some lemon gives Luther’s pesto a lift that brightens flavors.
“If you make a big batch, you can freeze them in cubes and then bag them for winter use. They are great as a stand-alone sauce but also great to add to other sauces and soups. Just drop a few cubes in your minestrone!”
A spreadable treat
Colin McKee, cheesemonger at goat.sheep.cow., has a simple suggestion to celebrate tomatoes. The shop recently started carrying crema di pecorino, a spreadable sheep’s milk cheese from Italy.
“We hadn’t been able to get our hands on something like this, and I had never seen a spreadable sheep’s milk cheese. [The producer] combines the pecorino with a sheep’s milk ricotta. It is decadent and spreadable. This is a punchy, wooly sheep’s milk with salt.”
McKee suggests slicing up a Brandon’s Bread loaf, spreading on a generous portion of the pecorino, stacking your tomatoes and then topping the tower with salt, pepper, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The result: you’ve taken your tomato sandwich up a notch.
Eat them like an apple
“Hopefully by now everyone knows how to whip up a proper BLT,” said Lindsey Barrow Jr., founder and CEO at Lowcountry Street Grocery (a mobile farmers market), Community Supported Grocery (a delivery service) and GroceryRx (a food-as-medicine program).
“Pro tip: Always crisp your bacon,” he shared. “A couple of other ways to live in the to-mato-ment — especially towards the end of summer when you’re swimming in hothouse and iceberg tomatoes — eat them like apples,” which is how founding father Thomas Jefferson sometimes ate tomatoes.
Barrow suggested grabbing a ripe, red, round tomato in one hand and a little salt in the other.
“You’re gonna get messy so do this outside.” he cautioned. “For a more civilized option, chop, dice, halve or quarter and freeze. This is your tomato sauce for fall and winter. Just thaw and add garlic (duh!). I’ve yet to meet a canned tomato sauce that tops this.”
Save the flavors of summer
At The Grocery and Lola Rose, Chef Kevin Johnson has been sharing veggie-forward menus for years. When it comes to the overabundance of great, local tomatoes, he likes to think ahead. He also uses tomatoes to create one of his son Oliver’s favorite pastas.
“The most effective, low-lift approach is roasting, pureeing and freezing,” Johnson said. “Core tomatoes, drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven at about 425 degrees Fahrenheit until charred and soft. Purée in the blender, charred skins and all. Make sure to use all the juices that have accumulated in the pan. Freeze in small containers or freezer bags. It’s a great way to add a taste of summer to a simple pasta or depth to a hearty winter stew.”
Oliver’s Pasta Recipe
From Chef Kevin Johnson
Serves 6.
Ingredients
- 1 pound of pasta, your choice (Chef’s note: better with short noodles or ones that can trap the sauce)
- 1/2 cup white wine
- 6 tomatoes, grated
- 1 red onion, cut in thirds crosswise and then slivered
- 5 anchovies (optional)
- 6 garlic cloves, slivered
- 3 sprigs of oregano, picked and minced
- Fresh basil, for garnish
- Big pinch of chili flake, adjust for preference
- Salt
Instructions
- Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.
- Cut the tomatoes in half and grate the cut sides on a box grater, working down to the skins. Discard the skins and set the pulp aside.
- Heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a large sauté pan. Add the onion, garlic, anchovies, oregano, chili flake and a big pinch of salt all at once. Cook over medium heat for 7 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft.
- Add the white wine, turn heat to high and let it reduce until the pan is almost dry. Drop in the pasta while the wine cooks down.
- Add the grated tomato and cook over high heat for about a minute.
- Drain the pasta and add it to the pan. Cook together for a minute or two to let everything come together, then pull off the heat.
- Taste and adjust seasoning, then tear in the basil. Top with pecorino, if you like.
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