A lot happens in 10 years.
Edmund’s Oast, which celebrates a decade on Morrison Drive this February, opened to great fanfare in 2014.
Look no further than former City Paper cuisine editor Kinsey Gidick’s recap of the top food stories of 2014: “When Charleston Beer Exchange owners Rich Carley and Scott Shor announced plans last year to start their own restaurant, the pre-opening excitement reached One Direction concert levels.”
The restaurant bagged its first James Beard nomination soon after, for Best New Restaurant 2015.
And Edmund’s Oast just made the James Beard semifinalist list again this year for Outstanding Bar program — a neatly tied bow on top of a successful 10 years.
It hasn’t been all fanfare and awards celebrations, though, according to co-owner Scott Shor. “We’re still in business against all odds,” he joked. “Our greatest accomplishment was pivoting through and out of Covid and coming out strong in a time when we didn’t know if we would survive.”
Chef Bob Cook, who joined Edmund’s in 2017, said he’s seen a shift in how chefs approach their roles in the past decade, and especially since the pandemic. “I never cared to be a flash-in-the-pan type chef, to go somewhere for a year and move on, that’s never been my thing,” he said.
He said he’d love to one day take home the James Beard America’s Classics Award, which honors locally owned restaurants that “have timeless appeal and are beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of its community,” according to the James Beard Foundation.
“To be the rock that’s been there, that’s what matters to me. People knowing that you can come [and knowing what they’ll get],” Cook said. “When I’m telling you this is a mom and pop restaurant,” he laughed, “we’re getting through every day, and we figure it out as we go.”
Peaks and valleys
Edmund’s Oast general manager Suzy Stone-Lockhart added, “We’re proud of the fact that our staff wants to be here — it’s the biggest reward for all of us.” She noted it’s also really rewarding when the restaurant itself can be there for its guests.
“We see people for special times and for hard times,” said Stone-Lockhart, recounting a recent visit from a grieving family celebrating Thanksgiving for the first time since their daughter died. “Being able to serve them and offer a comfortable, safe space, that was the highlight of my year,” she said. “We’re lucky enough to have this team; we all believe in the same values and trust each other.”
In the decade since opening, Edmund’s has seen both growth and contraction. In 2017, the team behind EO opened Edmund’s Oast Brewing Co. a mile up the road from the restaurant in the Pacific Box & Crate space on King Street Extension. The spot is popular with sports fans, beer connoisseurs and families.
EO Brewing is currently distributing beer in eight states and two other countries. “There’s a great trajectory of growth over there,” Shor said.
While the brewery has been a rip-roaring success, the retail arm of Edmund’s never quite got off the ground. Edmund’s Oast Exchange, located in the building (winner of the Carolopolis award for new construction from the Preservation Society of Charleston) next to the restaurant, closed its doors last year.
“It went through many different iterations and we had the most incredibly talented, passionate staff,” Shor said. But the “medium-sized” business model was difficult to run, and the team decided that the space is better used for private events.
The space will take the pressure off events that traditionally have been held in the restaurant and sommelier Sarah O’Kelley, the company’s wine director, has transitioned from her role at the Exchange to be more involved in the restaurant’s wine program.
And while the restaurant’s wine and cocktail programs are exciting — and extensive — it’s Edmund’s craft beer that is inextricably tied to the restaurant’s identity. Shor admits that 2014 was the “golden era” for craft beer: “There were serious beer bars and big craft beer selections. People were pushing the limits stylistically with beer,” he said.
People may not be chasing novelty beers as much as they once were, but Shor said that’s just part of a maturing industry. “Folks that are making good beer at a good price are gonna be fine. It’s an acceptable shift,” he said.
Shifts, pivots and one international pandemic later, Edmund’s Oast continues to persevere. “We’re just now seeing the final effects [of the pandemic]. There’s still fallout,” Shor said. “We worked really hard, and we came out of that changed, certainly, and changed for the better. We leaned into how we wanted to take care of people and what hospitality means to us.”
Edmund’s Oast celebrates 10 years with 10 days of fun. Starting Feb. 1, head to the restaurant for a wide variety of specials, from a new cocktail menu launch to at-cost caviar to a night of rare wines curated by Sarah O’Kelley. Check out the full lineup online.
Help keep the City Paper free.
No paywalls.
No subscription cost.
Free delivery at 800 locations.
Help support independent journalism by donating today.